La Perla: The Community the Tourists Don't See
La Perla — a community of approximately 300 families living between the old city walls and the Atlantic Ocean in Old San Juan — is one of Puerto Rico's most stigmatized and misunderstood neighborhoods. Built by formerly enslaved people and poor workers who were excluded from the walled city, La Perla has been alternately demonized, romanticized, and threatened with demolition for decades.
La Perla sits between the massive colonial fortification walls of Old San Juan and the Atlantic Ocean — physically below the tourist district, symbolically invisible to the tourism economy that surrounds it.
History:
- La Perla was settled in the 19th century by people excluded from the walled city: formerly enslaved people, servants, laborers, and the poor
- Under Spanish colonial law, only certain classes could live within the city walls — La Perla's residents were literally placed outside the walls of 'civilization'
- The community grew in the early 20th century as rural-to-urban migration increased
- By mid-century, La Perla had developed its own social structures, cultural traditions, and community identity
The Community:
- Approximately 300 families (population has fluctuated between 2,000-4,000 over the decades)
- Colorful houses built along the ocean cliff between the walls and the sea
- Strong community bonds — many families have lived there for generations
- Rich cultural traditions: music, food, community celebrations
- The community has produced musicians, artists, athletes, and community leaders
Stigmatization:
La Perla has been consistently stigmatized:
- Media portrayals focus on drugs and crime — ignoring the community's resilience and culture
- Tourism guides warn visitors to 'avoid La Perla' — treating a residential community as a danger zone
- The government has repeatedly proposed demolishing La Perla — for tourism development, park expansion, or 'public safety'
- Despacito (2017): Luis Fonsi and Daddy Yankee filmed their global hit in La Perla — briefly making the community world-famous while the video's party imagery obscured the real community
The Threat of Displacement:
La Perla faces ongoing threats:
1. Tourism development: The community sits on some of the most valuable real estate in Old San Juan — between El Morro fortress and the ocean
2. Government proposals: Multiple administrations have proposed converting La Perla into a park or tourist attraction
3. Airbnb: Short-term rentals in surrounding Old San Juan have increased property values and pressure on La Perla
4. Post-María: After Hurricane María damaged many La Perla homes, residents feared the government would use the disaster as justification for removal
5. Act 60: Wealthy mainlanders buying property in Old San Juan increase land values and displacement pressure
What La Perla Represents:
La Perla is a microcosm of Puerto Rico's colonial experience:
- A community founded by people excluded from the colonial city
- Stigmatized by the same system that created the conditions for its existence
- Threatened by tourism and development that would erase it
- Resilient despite decades of neglect and demonization
- The people the colonial economy doesn't want tourists to see — living between the fortress walls that protected colonial wealth and the ocean that connects Puerto Rico to the world
Sources
-
ICP - Instituto de Cultura
https://www.icp.pr.gov/ -
Old San Juan Communities - SHPO
https://www.oaip.pr.gov/